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DIY Electric A-bike upgrade kit!

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:53 am
by Amuro Lee


Online Auction (not including the bike, battery and charger) ... 528f.jhtml

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:55 pm
by kenwshmt2
any specs?

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:45 pm
by Amuro Lee
kenwshmt2 wrote:Clever
any specs?

Okay, I try to translate the specs for you. :)

Power: 200W
Maximum speed: 20Km/h
Motor weight: 1.75kg
Travel Distance: 12-20Km
Transmission Mode: Electronic Nonstage Transmission
Control Mode: Hall device Handle Bar Accelerator
Battery Type: Lithium iron phosphate battery, 4Ah/25.6V

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 5:12 pm
by newcross
This is great!! This could be err... Sinclair ZETA IV (A) or something like that. :lol:

PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 3:09 pm
by ksd
Is it as noisy as those little mopeds?

PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 4:17 pm
by Amuro Lee
I think you can find the answer from the video after the background music has ended.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:46 am
by ksd
That's great. But.....some queries.

Is the art of predalling now made defunct?

Can the speed be changed?

Does this affect the brakes?

Great idea.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:52 pm
by Amuro Lee
ksd wrote:That's great. But.....some queries.
Is the art of predalling now made defunct?

I think you can still enjoy the art of pedalling after installing the kit. However, when you feel tired, you can turn the motor on and enjoy "the art of motoring". :P

ksd wrote:Can the speed be changed?

Yes, there's a handle bar Accelerator included.

ksd wrote:Does this affect the brakes?

I think the brakes still work after installing the kit.

I just found it on the Internet and post the related information, pictures, links and video here for sharing purpose. I don't know too much about it actually.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:12 pm
by Binch Shin
Yeh!!... Great!! :shock:

Oneday I imagined a similar 'electric power supporter unit' for A-bike.
There were two problems.
1. Avoiding the interference between pedals and the unit.
2. An 'additional freewheel mechanism' on the unit.

He seems to solve the first problem clearly !!
Good technician, he is.. :D

PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:12 pm
by Gyrobot
Hi all,
I have also electrified my A-Bike (yes I know it's a fake one). Power leads connect from the seat to a 24V battery carried in a rucksack.
Possibly the first electric A-Bike in the UK??







More pictures can be found here :-

Everything works well, much less stress on the frame through lack of pedalling, speed is about 15+mph due to gearing but I havent tested battery life yet, I guess it's as long as how large a battery you fancy carrying in your back pack.

PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:37 pm
by Weakling
I guess all the RC hobby folks could give you advice on batteries
and how to get the most out of them.

Are you able to pedal it together with the motor when you go uphill?

If you switch off the motor and pedal does the motor turn and
make it more heavy to turn the cranks ?

what effect on the motor and what was it used for, intended for?

The little black box is that a motor relay? I have "built" radios but not
motors so I know nothing about such.

The good thing with such an arrangement you have is that the battery
is so flexible. You could change it very easy between litium to metal hybrid
or lead depending of what is sold locally at bargain price.

PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 4:59 am
by ctlai
cool can you give out the spec of the motor and controller that you use to the mod, please

PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 8:52 am
by Gyrobot
The little black box is indeed a 24V 80A relay which is the "controller". I decided to go for a simple on/off switch for the motor rather than a scooter style throttle grip and speed controller combination (although I do have these in my spares box). 80A is probably overkill because the whole circuit is protected by a 35A fuse inside the seat but it was what I had lying around and it fitted fine. You could fit a 40A version from here :

I can pedel (or freewheel) whether the motor is engaged or not but there is a little extra friction of the motor and drive chain to overcome. It is benefitial for battery life to start cycling as normal and then once started, switch on the motor (push button switch) for an easy ride. Release the push button to switch the motor off and brake as normal.

The batterys I use are 2x12V 7.5Ah SLA wired in series to give 24V carried in a backpack. These are a cheaper at £12 each but a heavier solution than a Lithium Ion alternative which comes in at £200 from here :

The motor is a general purpose scooter motor 24V - 250W - 13.5A - 2750RPM which I bought from ebay although they are available elsewhere.

Hope this helps,

PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:09 pm
by newcross
Gyrobot, I Salute you. 8)

PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:28 am
by Weakling
Gyrobot I love your description